LGX Accessories For Artillery Sidewinder and Genius
Price:
$54.90
Only 10 left in stock
This set is compatible with…
…the following 3D printers:
- Artillery SideWinder X1;
- Artillery SideWinder X2;
- Artillery Genius.
…the following Bondtech print heads:
- LGX extruder and Copperhead screw mount hotend
- LGX extruder and Mosquito hotend
- LGX extruder and Mosquito Magnum hotend
- LGX extruder and LGX ACE Magnum+ hotend
Always check below if we have Product Alerts you should be aware of before buying.
You may need
This LGX Accessories set is supplied with:
- 1x LGX PA12 Fan Shroud;
- 1x LGX PA12 Fan Mount
- 1x ALU Mount Plate
- 1x 5015 24V radial fan
- Mounting hardware
- 6x M3x6 Allen screw Low Head
- 1x M3x25 Allen screw Low Head
- 1x M3x10 Allen screw Cylindrical
- 1x M3x25 Allen screw Cylindrical
- 2x M3 Square nuts
- 1x M3 T-slot nut for 2020 profile
Freight Weight | 115 g |
---|---|
Dimensions | 10 × 8 × 7 cm |
SETUP GUIDE
This setup Guide is based on the LGX for Artillery and Mosquito.
Setting Up the LGX extruder on the Artillery Sidewinder X2
The guide below shows how to install the LGX on the Artillery Sidewinder X2. The same process can be implemented on the Sidewinder X1 and Genius.
The whole process is divided into 3 stages. Click each tab's arrow below to reveal the steps on each stage. This guide assumes you know how to operate the Artillery Sidewinder. If you don't, please refer to the manufacturer's documentation.
You may click the guide's pictures to view bigger resolution versions.
Click the Step ?/4 titles to see the photos and descriptions.
On the Artillery Sidewinder X1
Using the hex key can be helpful to push out the heater.
BE VERY CAREFUL AND DO NOT PULL IN THE CORDS SINCE THEY CAN BREAK EASILY.
On the Artillery Sidewinder X2
Step 1. Stripping down the printer
Use the list and video below to strip down the Artillery Sidewinder X1. The process is very close to stripping down the X1 or Genius.
- Unload filament and let hotend cool down.
- Turn off printer.
- Remove ribbon cable.
- Remove Breakout board
- Remove LED chip
- Detach printhead from X-carriage.
- Detach breakout board.
- Remove spacer plate
- Unplug connectors from breakout board.
- Detach bed levelling sensor.
- Detach 4010 hotend cooling fan.
- Remove hotend from heat sink.
- Remove heater and thermistor from hotblock.
Using the hex key can be helpful to push out the heater.
BE VERY CAREFUL AND DO NOT PULL IN THE CORDS SINCE THEY CAN BREAK EASILY.
If you have a loose LED chip that can be removed, please remove it.
BE VERY CAREFUL AND DO NOT PULL IN THE CORDS SINCE THEY CAN BREAK EASILY.
What to re-use and what not
NOT REQUIRED : breakout board spacer; silicone sock , hotend; 4020 part cooling fan; extruder; stepper motor; mounting plate.
REQUIRED : Z-sensor, breakout board cover; breakout board; 4010 cooling fan; heater; thermistor; stepper motor cable.
Check if you have all the necessary tools and items for this step
Tools you will need:
- Torque Wrench to tighten the studs;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- 2.0 mm hex key;
LGX accessories you should have:
- 4x M3x18 mm Stud with 5mm Hex with M3x4 thread;
- 1x M3x30 mm Low Head screws;
LGX for Artillery accessories you should have:
- 1x Aluminum Mount;
Step 2.1 Install the LGX studs
Step 2.2 Separate the LGX from the stepper motor
Step 3.0 Be sure to have all the necessary tools and items
Tools you will need:
- Hobby knife;
- Torque Wrench to limit the tightening Torque to 1.5Nm;
- 2.5mm hex key.
Mosquito components you should have + nozzle:
- Mosquito hotend (with nozzle);
- 2x M2.5x6 screws (from Mosquito mounting hardware kit);
LGX components you should have:
- 2x M3x28 screws (from LGX);
Other components you should have:
- PTFE Tube
Step 3.1 Attach hotend to interface plug
Step 3.2 Install the PTFE tube
Step 3.3 Install hotend on LGX
Step 3.4 Install Heater and Thermistor
Step 4.0 Verify You have these items
To move forward verify you have the following
tools :
- 2.0 hex key;
- 2.5 Hex Key.
Accessories :
- Mounting hardware;
- Fan mount;
- Fan Shroud;
- 5015 fan.
Step 4.2 Assembling the fan mount on the fan shroud
Step 4.3 Installing the square nuts
Step 4.4 Mounting the LGX
Mind the markings near the fan mount holes:
- C for Copperhead;
- M for Mosquito;
- + for Magnum+
4.5 installing the bed levelling sensor
Step 4.6 Installing the 5015 radial fan
Step 4.7 Modifying the stepper motor cable
Step 4.8 Install the Mosquito Fan
When your LGX for Artillery includes the GX ACE Magnum+, use the stock axial fan
Step 4.9 Connect the breakout board
Step 4.10 Install the breakout board
Finishing Up The Mechanical Installation
These are the following steps to finish up the mechanical installation:
- Use 3x M3x6 Low head screws to secure the LGX Printhead to the X-carriage on the same position as stock. Install all 3 screws and tighten it after you set the extruder vertical.
- If your printer has the loose LED chip, now it’s time to put it back.
- Install back the Breakout board cover
- Hide excessive cables behind the cover
- Carefully insert the ribbon cable
- If you use ribbon cable securer, put it back in place.
Step 4.11 Attaching ALU mount to x-carriage plate
Use 3 M3x6mm screws to hold the ALU mount onto the x-carriage
Step 4.12 Installing breakout board cover
If your printer has the loose LED chip, now it’s time to put it back.
Step 4.13 Re-connecting the flat cable
Step 5.1 Prepare 3D printer to be used with the LGX upgrade kit
FOR MODELS WITHOUT BED LEVELLING SENSOR
Have the printer powered on with steppers disabled while doing this step.
Lower the bed with the 4 bed levling knobs/screws under the bed and place as low as possible. Do not force the screws, just lower the bed until it is in the bottom.
Place the printhead in the center of the buildplate and rotate the Z-screws so the nozzle is just above the bed, use a 2.0mm hex key for reference.
Install the sensor to the frame and place it in a position so the sensor barely triggers (light up with a red led or touch depending on what sensor is used) as low as possible from the X frame. Secure the sensor when you find the right spot, it could be good to tighten loose, adjust up or down until you find the right spot. Tighten but not too hard while you have it in the right place.
If the sensor does not get secure to the frame with the T-nut, unscrew the screw a bit and then tighten it again.
LEVEL THE BED
In the LEVEL menu, press FIRST. When the printer have moved to the first position, use a paper and move the paper side to side when you raise the bed. when you feel a slight resistance on the paper, you are in the right height.
Continue with all 4 corners, repeat at least 1 time
For printer without bed leveling sensor, If the bed can't go high enough to level the bed, lower the bed to the bottom again, then lower the Z-endstop 1-2mm and try the Bed Leveling Sequence again.
ADJUST STEPPER MOTOR CURRENT :
- Use a multimeter and set the multimeter to read Voltage DC;
- On the mainboard, turn the extruder Stepper driver potentiometer counterclockwise 1/4 turn, be very careful to not touch any other component;
- Measure the negative input (with the black end) on the main board negative input and the potentiometer as positive end (red);
- You may need to lower the sensitivity on the multimeter tool to get the correct reading, it should be set to 0.5-0.6V, adjust the potentiometer further if needed.
Step 5.2 Slicer Settings and e-steps value
ADD TO START GCODE :
- Open the slicer software you use;
- Select your Artillery 3D printer upgraded with LGX;
- Access its machine settings;
- Edit the start g-code;
- Add the following command to the top of the code:
M92 E400; sets e-steps value for LGX extruder M500; save settings to EEPROM
SLICER SETTINGS :
- Adjust retraction speed to be between 25-40mm/s;
- Adjust retraction distance to be the same as yout nozzle diameter,e.g. 0.4mm when using a 0.4mm nozzle;
SILICONE BOOT :
With this Bondtech LGX Kit, you will get a 5015 part cooling fan. It is much stronger than stock. It is recommended to use a silicone boot for the hotend.
If the part cooling fan is cooling the hot block too much, the hotend may not have power to keep up the temperature. If you don't have the silicone boot, you may also lower the cooling percentage on the slicer settings of your profiles.
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