Bondtech shares models and instructions to install the LGX on a CR-6 SE

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How To Install A LGX On The CR-6 SE

How To Install A LGX On The CR-6 SE

Project give-away
LGX on CR-6SE

With this post we will teach you how to upgrade the Creality CR-6 SE with a Bondtech LGX, from the stock bowden setup to a shortbowden extruder setup.

This setup uses the stock hotend. We are also preparing parts that will allow to use other hotends like Copperhead and Mosquito.

Bondtech is sharing the STEP and STL models of the required plastic parts. Check below for links to download them.

To install this upgrade you need to 3D print the plastic parts and buy the Bondtech products below.

We ask you to source PTFE tube, but Capricorn will be a better option.

For a more long lasting solution consider upgrade the hotend to an all-metal.

1. Source these items

LGX eXtruder
Required

4mm Push-fit Collar
Optional

DDX extension cable
JST-XH6 > JST-PH6 Required

90mm 2/4 PTFE Tube
Required

2. Print these models

Cick each image to download the STL model.

Mount for LGX

Download STEP

Runout Sensor Mount

Download STEP

Wide Cable Holder

Download STEP

3. Look for this mounting hardware

2x
M3 plus M5 washer

Source the washers from any available supplier or home stash.

They will be used to block the downward movement of the hotend.

2x
Zip-tie

Source a pair of zip-ties from your tool-box or local supplier…

… to hold the cables with the Runout Sensor Mount.

2x
M3x12mm countersunk

Re-use both from the stock extruder as shown in the picture.

They will be used to grab the Mount to the X-carriage.

2x
M3x18mm

Source one from your stock extruder as shown in the picture.

They will be used to hold the LGX to the Mount from below.

4. Complete these steps

5. Be aware of the following

1. The LGX can be used on this setup with either the Direct or Bowden extruder interface plugs. On our setup we are using the Bowden interface plug. This is how we recommend you use it.

2. The PTFE (or Capricorn) tube in between the LGX and the hotend should be partially mobile to allow the levelling to take place. Do not use clips to secure it. Leave it floating on the LGX and hotend side.

3. The washers we use above the levelling plate are used to allow the hotend to rise when levelling and to prevent it from dropping when the extruder pushes filament out.

4. Do not connect the LGX stepper motor directly to the stock stepper motor cable. Use the recommended extension cable or make a compatible cable following our stepper motor’s technical data.

5. On the video we finish the setup by adjusting the Vref from 1.36 (stock value on our printer) to 0.8. It is recommended to use from 0.4 to 0.8. Lower the Vref if stepper motor is too hot to touch. Use a Multimeter to perform the procedure. Remember to read using VDC and to use a scale that may show you at least 2 decimal places.

6. Adjust the trigger threshold of the strain gauge. To raise its value twist the potentiometer clockwise, and counter clockwise to lower it. We got the best results setting it up to its minimum.
To know more about tuning the strain gauge levelling on Creality read this post from Sebastiaan Dammann.

7. Set the e-steps value to 400. You can either do it by: adding a M92 g-code command to the start g-code of your slicer; creating a g-code file with the M92 E400 and M500 commands and “print it” (recommended); or update the firmware including that change.

8. We achieved the best print results by using the Prusa Slicer to create the g-code files. The 3DBenchy we are making on the demo video was printed with E-PLA from Add:North, and with the following LGX profile: LGX_CR-6

See The Upgrade Kit In Action Printing A 3D Benchy

Warning – It is a very boring video : )

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Thank you : )

11 thoughts on “How To Install A LGX On The CR-6 SE

  1. oliviercazaubon@gmail.com says:

    I
    Do you tought about create an adapter like the DDX V3 of the LGX for CR-10S Pro v2, i want one but now i have saw the LGX i would prefer go to this model.
    Thanks for the response.
    Regards

    • Nuno Santiago says:

      Hi Oliver,
      We understand why you prefer the LGX. It has brought many new great features and it is a great extruder.
      Until the end of the year, and because we have so many other projects running, we are not planning on creating a LGX based DDX.
      Until then, in our opinion, if you compare using a custom LGX setup against using the current BMG based DDX v3, we believe the DDX v3 is a better option.
      Thank you for your interest in our content.

  2. clue3030 says:

    How about making the same mount to fit the ender 6 also. So many of us in the ender 6 Facebook group have an LGX but there is no mount out there for us to mount this to our ender 6. It would mean a great deal to the ender 6 community if one was created for the Eder 6 to have the LGX mounted to it. Thanks

    • Nuno Santiago says:

      Hi Peter,
      We assigned many resources to create a good solution for the Ender-6.
      Our work was focused on changing the DDX to fit it. We finally have it working with the DDX v3.
      For the time being, and because we have so many other projects running, we are not planning on creating a parallel solution based on the LGX.

      We supply in this post the STEP files of all the parts used.
      To install a LGX on the Ender-6 the way we did here, we hope someone can come forward and make the necessary adjustments to our parts.
      Thank you for your interest in our content.

  3. aignix18 says:

    “We are also preparing parts that will allow to use other hotends like Copperhead and Mosquito.”
    As soon as that’s available, I’m in. It would be great to use the high-flow mosquito and LGX with the CR-6 SE.

    • Nuno Santiago says:

      Hi,
      We will release this week (until 19th June 2021) an adapter to use Mosquito hotends on this solution. Copperhead is still under study.
      Thank you for your interest in our solutions : )

      • rokk says:

        Just confirming if I am about to purchase the LGX and mosquito, will you be supplying the hardware bracket or will they be printed by the user ? Just trying to figure out if I hold off and purchase everything as a complete kit or can I purchase the LGX and Mosquito Hotend now and print the bracket when released……awesome work

        • Nuno Santiago says:

          Hi Rokk,
          That is a good question. Our plan is to supply the model so users can print it. The bracket needs a thread for the stock push-fit that may be modelled or tapped after printed. Please tell us your preference: To print the part? Or to buy the part?

          • rokk says:

            I would prefer to purchase the complete kit , as the finish and quality of your parts are A1 and very industrial looking, so I would personally pay the extra knowing the parts are tested and in spec , removing another variable that might be out of your control, if end user prints parts.

  4. Roger Eberhart says:

    For those using the community firmware with the BTT CR-6 motherboard, what setting should used for the extruder stepper motor (this can be adjusted via firmware with this setup)? In the firmware, the current is listed as mA, not volts. I assume 800mA would be the same as .8 volts?

    • Nuno Santiago says:

      Hi Roger,
      As you know the BTT SKR for CR-6 mainboard you don’t need the multimeter and to turn potmeters on the PCB to adjust the stepper drivers’ current. It uses TMC2209 stepper drivers, same as stock, but you may control their current on the firmware using mA.

      On the LGX we recommend to use a current between 400 and 800 mA.
      The 2 main rules on setting the current on the LGX are:

      1. Lower the current if the stepper motor is too hot too touch.
      2. Raise the current if the extruder skips steps.

      Final note:
      We saw already examples coming from customers using boards that have these UART-controlled stepper drivers and use the LGX with a 100 mA setting. So follow the rules and use our recommended values only as a starting point.

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